Michel Bettane, one of France's most influential wine writers, says critics are not gurus - and Jonathan Nossiter's criticisms are 'infantile'.

In an interview with Swiss newspaper Le Temps, Bettane said that the role of the wine critic is to act as interface between the producer and the public, to be constructive and to guide the consumer.

'While he has a role as a judge, his judgement must not be brutal,' said Bettane. 'He also has the role of an educator. But we must not tell people what they should like. We are not gurus.'